Seam Finishing an Unlined Jacket

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Sometimes an unlined jacket pattern like the one we worked with making this jacket from a light weight denim fabric (McCalls 7333) will have rolled up sleeves, or an open neckline where the raw edges of a seam allowance will show. If that is the case like in our example here, you will want to make sure that your raw edges of your seam allowance look nice, clean, and professional. You will not want to leave them raw or even have a zig-zag seam finish. In this photo below you can see the seam allowance and seam finishing of the rolled up sleeve on the jacket that Ashley made.


 

Here is a photo of an unlined sleeve on a jacket that Ashley made. She used a zigzag seam finish, and you can still see raw edges. It looks raw, unfinished, and unprofessional.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Since this zigzag seam finish still showed raw fraying edges, we decided to try another seam finish technique known as edge stitching that you can see in the photo below.

Here is the unlined sleeve with a much better choice for a seam finish, an edge seam finish.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

By using the edge stitching seam finish, there are no longer any raw edges or threads shown. When the sleeves of the unlined jacket are rolled up, they look much more professional and clean now. To achieve this look, press the seam open, and then fold each seam allowance under 1/4″ and press. Keeping the seam allowance free from the sleeve, stitch close to the fold line. Then press open again to help keep the seam allowance in place.

 

Here are two seam finishes side by side for comparison. The one on the left is a zigzag seam finish and the one on the right is an edge finish.

 

Here is Ashley showing another view of her seam finishing.
Ashley in the jacket she made.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Here is the pattern Ashley used, McCalls 7333.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 



 

 

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